Charbonnier or Tricholoma caligatum

Cap 5-12 cm across, when young bell-shaped or convex-conical, becoming with age flat-convex with a low, broad bump in the center. The skin is smooth, slightly slimy in wet weather, dry and matte in dry weather. Color: gray-violet, gray-greenish, olive-gray, darker in the center, with distinct fine dark radial fibrous streaks — a diagnostic feature. The margin is even, slightly wavy in old caps, inrolled in young ones.

The cap of Tricholoma caligatum is 6 to 15 centimeters across. When young it is hemispherical with an inrolled margin, opening with age to convex and flat. The surface is dry, covered with large pressed-down fibrous scales of chestnut-brown to dark brown on a paler background. The scaly brown cap gives the mushroom a stout, eye-catching look.

Gilled hymenophore — the gills are notched (sinuate) where they attach to the stem, moderately crowded, fleshy. When young they are whitish with a faint yellowish tinge, becoming with age creamy-yellowish, especially toward the edge. The yellowish tone of the gills is a diagnostic feature. Spore print white.

The hymenophore is gilled. The gills are attached to the stem or notched, crowded, whitish or cream, developing rusty-brown spots with age. The spore print is white. Pale gills with reddish spots, together with the ring on the stem, help you recognize this species.

Stem 5-10 cm tall, 1.5-2.5 cm thick, firm, fleshy, cylindrical. Color: whitish with a characteristic yellowish tinge, especially toward the base. Surface smooth with fine lengthwise fibers. No ring.

The stem is cylindrical, dense, 4 to 12 centimeters tall. Its defining feature is a felty ring, below which the stem is covered with dark bands of scales that look like a pulled-on boot — hence the name. Above the ring the stem is pale, below it brown and scaly. There is no volva. The combination of a scaly cap, a ring and a scaly "boot" sets this species apart.

Flesh firm, white in the cap, white with a yellowish tinge in the stem. Does not change color when cut — it does not turn pink (unlike T. saponaceum) and does not darken. Smell distinctly mealy-cucumber, taste mild, pleasantly mushroomy with a hint of flour, no bitterness.

The flesh is white, thick, dense and fibrous, and barely changes color when cut. The taste is often bitterish, especially in mushrooms from under broadleaf trees; non-bitter specimens have a pleasant taste close to matsutake. Because of possible bitterness, the flesh is boiled before cooking. Its most characteristic feature is a strong spicy aroma.

A distinct, pleasant mealy-cucumber smell — like freshly ground flour with a note of fresh cucumbers. A diagnostic feature, clear when you cut it.

The smell is strong, spicy and penetrating, reminiscent of nutmeg, cinnamon or pepper — one of the defining features of the species. It is by this characteristic spicy aroma, together with the scaly cap and the boot on the stem, that Tricholoma caligatum is easiest to recognize.